December 23, 1996: Salt Point State Park

From Federal Highway 101 at Santa Rosa: Just north of Santa Rosa, watch for the exit at the Old River Road (signs point to Guerneville). Turn west here (left if you are headed north, right if you are headed south). A few miles of flatland lead you into some hilly country reminiscent of the Mediterranean -- note the buildings on hills to the left near the Villa Pompeii winery. Shortly after you enter the hills you come down in the forested valley of the Russian River. Through the next twenty miles you pass several small towns (prone to flooding) such as Guerneville and Monte Rio. Eventually the valley opens out, the forest disappears, and not far beyond the tourist-trappy-looking hamlet of Duncans Mills you'll pass through the valley's mouth and come to State Highway 1 just north of the Russian River bridge and just south of the town of Jenner.

Half a mile north of here, you enter the tiny coastal town of Jenner, and immediately start uphill. Leaving Jenner, you drop into another broad, shallow canyon, on the far side of which the road winds in hairpin turns up a steep bluff; currently, in two places the road consists of a single stop-lighted lane because of apparent weather damage to the outer lane. The view is lovely, but if you're driving you'd better not take much note of it, because the road is narrow and does not always have a guard rail.

At the top, you'll pass a nice little vista point and trail on your left -- a last outrider of the Sonoma State Beaches -- and a turnoff to your left which leads up through steep, forested country -- a nice drive, if you have the time. The main road, continues north along what appear to be a chain of vertical cliff faces; the occasional cattle grids along the road here would seem to be superfluous (how would a cow ever get out here, anyway?). Leaving the cliffs behind, you do pass a farm or two on the level shelf between the coast and the hills to the east. Keep watch on the left side, and before long you'll say what appears to be a conurbation of ancient Russian board buildings; this is historic Fort Ross, Russia's sometime colony on the California coast.

Towns here are few, far between, and seem to consist mainly of country grocery stores and large, ultra-modern coastal lodges. You'll pass through one of these just north of Fort Ross; you'll encounter a second a few miles north, just before you enter Salt Point State Park. You drive on through the woods for a half mile before coming to the turnoff to your right to the Woodside Campground. Drive up to the parking lot by the restroom, which is a good place for you to park. N.B. There is a $5 day use fee for parking here. When we were there, you were expected to register yourself at the closed-up entrance station. Don't forget to do so.

I remembered this as being a fairly level trail, but in fact it involves a certain amount of moderate ascent through redwood and fir forest. There is not a lot to describe here. In a hundred yards or so, you pass the North Trail, leading off to the left. Continue straight ahead.

If the forest isn't particularly interesting, the geology may be. The fire road is cut into the ground, and on the left side you can find outcroppings of what appear to be zillions of water-rounded stones, apparently left over from an epoch -- not so long ago, geologically speaking -- when this area was under the sea.

In another mile you'll pass a pair of wooden water tanks to the left, and another side trail leading off in that direction. Again, keep on straight ahead.

The rise is now less steep. Another half mile or so through the forest brings you to your turnoff to the left. You have to keep an eye open for this; the turn is very sharp and well hidden. There is a signpost on the right side of the trail; as I remember, it doesn't point to the turnoff trail, but indicates that if you continue ahead, you'll encounter the "Prairie". I haven't been there, but envision a large, open meadow.

Turn sharp left onto a real trail, which climbs for a short distance and then begins a descent back toward the sea. In season, you'll find rivulets running down the trail and, in flat spots, nearly impassable pools of water, around whose edges you'll have to work your way.

Not very far down the trail, the trees start thinning out, particularly to the right; and you may notice that those you can see are getting smaller. Apparently the soil here doesn't carry the proper nutrients, and the trees don't grow as high. This is the beginning of the "Pygmy Forest" -- though technically you won't really get into it until you pass a sign, a quarter of a mile further on, that tells you what it is. Also note that the type of tree has changed as well -- there are pines and some kind of small juniper-like conifer here, rather than the redwoods and Douglas firs that surround the area.

Beyond the pygmy forest, you'll pass the other ends of the trails you saw taking off to the north, earlier. Here, too, you are in better-grown forest, tall with more brushless space beneath the trees than you've seen previously on the trail. After you pass your junction with the North Trail, and curve off to the right (the north), you will in fact find areas where the forest shades into meadow, particularly to the left; in fact, at some point you'll be able to see highway 1 off in the distance.

Continue descending to the north until the trail turns back to the southwest and comes out into the open. You'll have to make your way around the right end of a tree that has come down across the trail (unless they've removed it by the time you get there), beyond which it's only a short walk down to highway 1. At this point, you're probably about half a mile or so north of Woodside Campground; you could if you wished, follow the road back (to the left) to where you left your car.

Look left. Look right. Look left again. Then cross highway 1 -- quickly; this can be a busy road on weekends (we were there on a Monday, fortunately). Go through an opening in the fence and walk straight on downslope, across the moorland above the sea. (The map shows the trail going north to Stump Cove, and then looping back near the ocean; this will add 1/2 to 3/4 miles to your walk.)

Down near the ocean you'll come to a north-sound two-wheel track, which is the main trail. You turn left here to head for Gerstle Cove; but before you do, walk on out, past a pile of rocks, to the point. If the waves are good and high, you can get some very good views of them spouting up considerably higher than you stand, just in front of you. Notice also the seaweed growing on the rocks that are regularly swept by the waves, and the kelp floating in the churning cauldron to your left.

The walk to Gerstle Cove is not too long. You'll pass several rock mounds, and also -- on your right -- a field of calla lilies. Eventually you emerge onto the road that leads to the parking lot at Gerstle Cove. Turning left and hiking half a mile uphill along the road will lead you to the entrance station at Gerstle Cove; turn right on highway 1, walk two hundred yards, and turn left into the Woodside Campground -- this will take you back to your car.

Don Harlow